Dining Posture in Ancient Rome: Bodies, Values, and Status. By MATTHEW B.
ROLLER. Princeton and Oxford: Princeton University Press, 2006. Pp. xii +
219. Cloth, $39.50. ISBN 0–691–12457–4.
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Print Version (forthcoming): CJ 103.1: 112-14
M.F.K. Fisher, the great 20th-century interpreter of food and foodways,
once observed that there is a communion of more than our bodies whenever
bread is broken and wine drunk. Indeed, in recent years the sharing of food
and drink has allowed for all kinds of interpretation, a reality no better
confirmed than in M. Roller’s Dining Posture in Ancient Rome. This book
brings fresh insight into a neglected topic, the role of bodily bearing in
a convivial setting in the Roman world, and provides a much needed revision
of the traditional communis opinio on dining posture on convivial
occasions.
The traditional view of the 19th-century German handbooks holds that dining
posture played out along schematic lines: free adult males reclined; free
adult females sat during the Republic, but reclined during the Empire; free
children, if present, sat; and slaves stood. Recognizing that this
interpretation is based on limited literary evidence, R. examines both
literary accounts of convivia from 200 BC to AD 200 and visual material,
specifically funerary objects and wall murals. R. organizes his study
around the participants at convivia—devoting a chapter in turn to men,
women and children, and analyzing within each chapter the literary and
visual sources. In addition, he draws on contemporary scholarship on the
history of the body and nonverbal communication to interpret dining
posture.
The first chapter focuses on men, for whom reclining at table was the
dominant posture. In the literary sources, reclining was associated not
only with leisure (otium) and privilege for elite males, but also with
escape from the negotia of their public lives; in contrast, slaves
regularly stood, a posture linked to their servile function on these
occasions. Turning to the visual evidence, R. demonstrates that, consistent
with the literary texts, standing remained the dominant posture for slaves.
His main focus, however, is on non-servile diners. In the funerary
monuments, these individuals typically appear as freedmen or fairly
low-status freeborn persons (sub-elites) who, on the basis of dress,
posture and tableware, nevertheless represent themselves as elite diners;
but unlike the elites of the literary texts, they seem to portray
themselves so as to solidify their social identity, perhaps even
advertising their elite aspirations in the process.
Pompeian wall panels provide additional interpretative possibilities.
Within dining rooms likely utilized by sub-elite males, depictions of
convivia were centrally located and preserved features of elite dining that
would have prompted a host of questions relating to the diners’ own social
aspirations and dining practices. On the other hand, dwellings likely to
have been occupied by local elites contained less conspicuous and less
centrally located dining imagery. R. interprets this evidence as indicating
that these elites did not engage in conscious self-reflection about dining
practices to form their identity; owing to their social station, they
probably felt little pressure to do so. R. completes this chapter with a
consideration of contexts (e.g., military and mourning) in which males
would have chosen not to recline, as well as with a convincing analysis of
the meaning behind sitting, as opposed to standing or reclining, in the
urban cook-shop or tavern (popina).
R. turns next to women and dining posture. His analysis of the literary
evidence reverses the claims of Valerius and Varro that women in some
unspecified time period dined seated, while the men reclined. In fact,
women of every status frequently reclined to dine—a practice which must
have mirrored contemporary dining norms. Interpretation of the material
remains is more challenging. The funerary materials portray sub-elite women
reclining when alone, but seated when in male company. R. interprets the
latter posture as suggesting sexual restraint, a value especially important
for this class of women, who would have been concerned to advertise their
social belonging and to distance themselves from their humble past. R.
further claims that this seated posture “works” only if we understand
reclining (as depicted on the reliefs of women dining by themselves) as the
true “default” posture. Such arguments are indirect, as R. admits. Even so,
he is right to claim that ideology can illuminate social practice by
challenging our assumptions about material of this nature.
Children, the focus of R.’s third and final chapter, appeared infrequently
at convivia, especially in a non-literary context. Once again, R. corrects
the overly schematic handbook view of children as always sitting on these
occasions. In fact, children in the literary sources both stood and
reclined, although the latter posture was most likely restricted to elite
boys and was closely connected to their functioning as adults. Furthermore,
the evidence suggests that the age at which reclining took place was more
fluid than the handbooks suggest.
R. is at his best in his analysis of the literary evidence. His correction
of the communis opinio of dining posture is invaluable, as is his careful
analysis of the nature of the comissatio in the appendix. The
interpretation of the visual sources is more challenging, however, and two
points might be usefully raised. First, the corpus for the period under
study is not large—45 pieces of funerary material, restricted primarily to
Rome and its immediate surroundings, and 31 wall paintings, the majority of
which come from Pompeii. To be sure, R. can only work with the evidence at
his disposal, and he puts this material to carefully nuanced use;
nevertheless, one wishes that the remains were more plentiful and more
geographically diverse. Second and more generally, we know that the
postures R. examines on these grave reliefs were present in the ancient
world long before the Romans came to power. One could argue, then, that
they reflect a social convention that is even more complex than R.
portrays. This reality invites further examination.
Nonetheless, R. convincingly shows that dining postures at Roman convivia
were dynamic rather than static. More broadly, he provides a rich
interpretative context for understanding the complex ways in which gender,
status and social relations played out in the Roman world.
JOHN F. DONAHUE
The College of William and Mary in Virginia
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